DISQUS

Ultan · 1 year ago

My girlfriend makes fun of my tie bar. I really had no idea they were out of fashion. I personally can't stand having my tie flap around in the breeze--or anything else for that matter.

Justin M · 1 year ago

Knickers are still a big deal among many a bike riding man. You can see these (http://www.chromebags.com:80/products/apparel/s...) some what shi-shi knickers are for sale in boutique bike shops.
Also, I've recently stolen my dad's tie tack that doubles as a slide rule. It's a hit.

Neil Simpson · 1 year ago

Hi Ross and Jason

Some interesting additions although in the traditional sense, saddle shoes arent Oxfords as Oxfords have a toe cap.

Best regards

Neil

pistolette · 1 year ago

Regarding #5 , The Tie Bar. my corporation actually sent out a note about them in our newsletter last year. It was a travel warning saying that if you were going to dangerous countries, that criminals or terrorists could tell you were American if you were wearing a tie clip (bar). Apparently European and Asian businessmen do not wear them (at least not in 2007). Interesting.

iClaudius · 1 year ago

Wearing an ascot is only for the eccentric. Being odd or eccentric is not manly.

Hayden Tompkins · 1 year ago

Ok, you have me completely conflicted. On the one hand I want to keep my husband FAR FAR AWAY from this article and its promotion of the LONGJOHN, horned rimmed glasses, and WOOL KNICKERS. (!!!)

On the other hand, I adore tie bars, argyle, and especially pocket watches.

Let's call it a draw and I will give him the verbal recap of this article, suitably edited, of course. ;)

Andrew Scotchmer · 1 year ago

Similar to the saddle shoe, here in the UK a man's wardrobe cannot be said to be complete without a good sturdy pair of brown (and it has to brown) brouges.

There brilliant and can be worn casual with jeans or more formal with a smart suite' and if that suite happens to be navy blue... well your ahead of the game.

Corey · 1 year ago

Pocket watches are too cool. Especially those handed down from grandpa or dad. A tie bar assumes you still wear a tie. I can't remember the last time a wore a tie. One piece longjohns are a must however. Nothing more comfortable.

wutho · 1 year ago

I'm disappointed that you missed the opportunity to link back to your excellent article on hats (since, though they are still in fashion with a certain set, they are a fashion from an earlier age):

http://artofmanliness.com/2008/05/28/the-perfec...

You could have also linked to your pocket square post (though that can be fully argued that that has never gone out of fashion, it's just suffered from a lack of attention due to lack of haberdashers and ignorant suit wearers):

http://artofmanliness.com/2008/06/15/how-to-fol...

Also, may I submit for consideration and discussion some additional out-of-fashion favorites that still have charm:

* The smoking jacket (Still conveys an instant image of erudition when used by comedians or satirists. This attire is made to go with the club chair in a walnut-paneled library.)

* The double-breasted suit (It makes manly-built men look like monoliths.)

* The three piece suit (A fifties fashion sullied by association with eighties power-brokers, this deserves a comeback.)

* The night shirt (This may be in fashion. Though, I fear the sweat suit and lounge pant has replaced it.)

* The wristwatch (Though this may be a merely endangered fashion, a cellphone is a poor substitute for an actual timepiece.)

* The stirrup sock (If you are going to suggest knickers, then I'd like to see them return to baseball, along with the stirrup sock.)

* The waistcoat (A collared, fitted vest, how can you rock a tailcoat without one?)

* The seersucker suit (This seems to see sporadic stabs at returning, but pure Summer class nonetheless.)

And iClaudius, I have to respectfully disagree that being odd or eccentric is not manly. Like patriotism, it depends fully on the expression. Uncle Wadsworth padding out in the middle of the night in pith helmet, slip-on slippers and night gown with his best 12-guage shotgun to hunt the dreaded East Anglia Night Elephant might be an example of a manly oddness. However, I do agree that the ascot is a tough act to pull off in this day and age and still manage to have "charm."

Nesagwa · 1 year ago

wutho:

Amen to the 3 piece suit.

I was recently getting some new duds for a wedding and found some nice pants (which was harder than I thought it would be, pleated hips and cuffed hems are almost impossible to avoid in "suit" stores, two styles I dont particularly like) and the shirt easy enough (didnt get french cuffs unfortunately, didnt have time to get cufflinks and was running out of time) but at the end of the day not one store sold vests that werent part of a tuxedo (usually in baby blue sheer material or some such nonsense).

When did vests fall out of favor so much that you cant find them even at stores that claim to be geared toward menswear and suits specifically.

So rather than completing my outfit, I ended up looking like some high schooler going to their homecoming dance.

Coats are hard to get that arent the standard puffy shouldered business thing. I have broad shoulders already, I dont need any help, thanks anyway.

Its really unbelievable how substandard mens clothing is compared to what it once was in these stores. Really frustrating honestly.

Neil Simpson · 1 year ago

@ iclaudius

eccentricity is not manly? my dear, eccentricity is being self determinant and self determinance is as manly is as it is possible to be.

Chin chin,

Neil

Adam · 1 year ago

There were a few great suggestions in this article. It's good to see a throwback to the good days instead of attempting to resurrect the 60's and 70's like the great majority of fashion trends.

JMTS · 1 year ago

Thank you for mentioning over-sized dress shirts and baggy pleated khakis! i see men wearing this "uniform" much too often and it is horrible! Great article!

Novel · 1 year ago

@wutho
I have good news about the seersucker suit. As a southern gentlemen, they have never lost favor in the Old North State.

Zendad · 1 year ago

You hit the nail on the head with the one piece long johns! I still rock those bad boys when using the snowblower, riding the motorcycle at the edges of the riding season and when camping. They are especially handy here in Ontario Canada. As for some of the other items, meh. Kudos on the writeup!
Zendad
http://www.zendad.net

wutho · 1 year ago

@Novel
Heh, my first run through called out the seersucker as being out of favor with Yankees, but second guessed myself. It seems I would have been better served to acknowledge the South!

Also, have thought of a couple of other items that might also work. How about...

* The dinner jacket? Is it possible to wear one of these now and not be taken for a waiter? Still, if Mr. Bogart could make it work how can we allow it to be the sole province of our waitstaff?

* The bow tie? This one I'm not sure of. It's still seen, but is too often the province of those trying to "create a brand" as a brainy poindexter. Also, it doesn't cover the often-gapping, poorly made, French front shirts that we non-bespoke types wear nowadays.

* The boutonnière. No question about this one. A flower in a man's lapel is a great way to look dapper, and is a great softening element to the otherwise severe feel of a man's suit.

Kevin Conder · 1 year ago

I'm wearing a pair of horn-rimmed glasses right now! I had them made by getting a pair of Rayban Wayfarer sunglasses and having prescription lenses put in them. You can get Wayfarers in (probably synthetic) tortoise. That covers two items on the list.

Spencer · 1 year ago

Pistolette:

Just like a week or two ago I watched a PBS show on Japan and there was a guy with a tie clip!

Spencer

Novel · 1 year ago

Ah, the bow tie. I wear one quite often.
No need for a tie clip/bar/tack. They never get in the way and it's easier to dry clean a shirt than a nice tie, so I don't have to worry as much about spills.
Not everyone knows how to tie one, which puts those of us do in an exclusive club.

Tron · 1 year ago

This wasn't on the list (or i missed it) but for the past 2 months now i've been shopping around looking for a Fedora that I think suits me.
Just for something different as you dont see many people wearing them, makes one stand out a bit from the crowd.

Charlie Kondek · 1 year ago

That's one thing I love about this site, you guys bring old ideas BACK.

I'm not a particularly dapper dresser myself, but I do love retro clothing. I myself favor baggy chinos and bowling shirts. In praise of the simple bowling shirt!

By the way, I can't get behind you on the ascot thing, but I'd like to point out that scarves are - or were - in for men this year.

George · 1 year ago

I'd say suspenders. Don't really see them too much today, but man are they manly.

DL · 1 year ago

I've never liked the look of tie tacks, tie clips, tie bars, etc, but don't like my ties (when I have to wear them) flopping all over. So what I do is take a larger size paper clip and clip the small end of the tie to my shirt. Voila! tie stays in place, apparently like magic.

As far as hats go, I also wish the more functional and dapper ones would make a comeback. So in the meantime, I occasionally doff my Bay Hat waxed canvas "Cape Flattery." Vaguely resembles a fedora, but is far removed enough that it does not engender foolish comments like "Hey, whatt're you, Indiana Jones? Duh-HAW!" Excellent hat when the rain and snow comes (keep it waxed!), and so far has stayed pretty cool in dead of summer. Gotten some compliments from it, too. Clearly for casual wear, tho; don't think it'd go with a suit of any kind.

DL · 1 year ago

Oh yeah, suspenders: I just ordered the "dressy" (1 1/2") side clip ones from Duluth Trading. I got three (khaki/dk. blue/black) and am VERY impressed with the quality and the price. They're sharp looking and HIGHLY recommended!!!

David Pepka · 1 year ago

Great list. Although I had no idea the tie bar was out of fashion. It's a must for me. I've always wanted a pocketwatch, I may have to take a look next time I'm out shopping. I am buying new glasses next week and you bet your bippy I'll be checking out some tortiseshell and hornrims.

Novel · 1 year ago

Suspenders are the poor man's braces.

Ed44 · 1 year ago

Great post. Anyone got links or sources for some of these items (especially horn-rimmed glasses)?

Re: knickers - I'd always thought that knickers were another name for underwear and that the type of trousers in the photo are called Plus 4s.

Sgt Rock · 1 year ago

RED UNION SUITS! There isn't a piece of clothes that can beat a union suit. Great in winter under clothes, great for lounging by the fire, and it gotta be a square flap for those nature times, not the little slit type. No that's a man's piece of clothes.

rtcrooks · 1 year ago

@Ed44 For horn rimmed glasses, www.moscot.com is the best. They still make their frames the way they did in 1915. Their lenses have vintage tints to them to give a classic feel. I wouldn't go anywhere else.

Ed44 · 1 year ago

rtcrooks,

Thanks for the Moscot link. They have just what I'm looking for.

mr classic · 1 year ago

Tie bars are a faux-pas.

Saddle shoes, long johns.. Not very distinguished menswear either.

Tortoise glasses and the ascot tie are the only items I would consider wearing at one point.

I Am An Evil Taco · 1 year ago

ascots I'd disagree with. what are we, scooby doo?

Fedoras, on the other hand. I love the old fashioned hat. I'm looking for a derby.

Ames · 1 year ago

Dude. Fountain pens. That's the easy one :-)

Ames · 1 year ago

Errr. By which I meant, "that's an easy one." The true weapon of a gentleman.

Quinton · 1 year ago

Yay!! Vintage style of mens apparels are looking so attractive!!

Tarah · 1 year ago

@iClaudius: Being eccentric is having some personality. You have to make your clothing 'yours'. Why be like everyone else?

Lauren P. · 1 year ago

HATS! Hats are the bomb and oh-so manly. You definitely missed out on them here. Other than that: great list!

vxcvxc · 1 year ago

Some of the stuff on this site is cool like steps on living a virtuous life and the guide on being a good husband, but Im starting to think the guy that started this site hung out with his grandpa way too much. Why the hell would you need one-piece long johns or a freaking ascot? You dont have to look like you came from the 1930's (which sucked despite what your grandpa told you) to be a gentleman.

Manic · 1 year ago

A Pocket Watch!

Excellent. I have recently been perusing eBay for Pocket Watches, as I personally believe that is would make a fine addition to apparel. especially with the new burgeoning genre I've stumbled upon...known as 'SteamPunk. [a derivative of cyberpunk]

I have recommended this site and the Watch to many of my male friends in sore need of 'Manning-up'


And further to previous posts: Eccentricity is a damn good thing. It sets you apart. Makes you a man not a mouse.

Motis · 1 year ago

Saddle shoes and argyle socks are all well and good, though hardly any kind of fashion revelation.

Ascots are for ascotholes.

Nate · 1 year ago

I think cufflinks would definitely need to make number 11 on your list. Very classy, but generally out dated. I were them everyday with my suits to work, and I get a lot of compliments.

Corea5 · 1 year ago

Loved the article and I plead guilty to at least 6 of the 10. Most recently saddle shoes and argyle socks. And the tie bars are making a big come back. I saw ton's of them in Macy's last week.

Chris · 1 year ago

What about suspenders?

laura · 1 year ago

I love all of them (I have a major thing for old dudes and old dude stuff) but not the knickers, ascot, or the horn rims. I'd buy the horn rims on a genuine old dude, but on a young feller, it just looks like they're trying too hard to be retro-chic. The ascot is NOT manly (i doubt it ever was) and the knickers are just, plain, silly! Back in the later seventies when those were in style for girls, my dad used to call them "seven day shitters" so I can't really think of them any other way.

AK · 1 year ago

These are some bold suggestions - I love almost all of them! But beware - they take a man with panache and confidence to pull them off; there's no room for timid men here. Nothing worse than someone (man OR woman) who looks like the clothes are wearing them. I hope more men learn to appreciate and embrace the look of classic menswear.

Gentleman Duncan · 1 year ago

All of these are good pieces, but aren't they also staples of "indie" fashion? Doesn't make sense to criticize the indie kids for their uniform and then praise the uniform.

Rich Landers · 1 year ago

Love the Union Suit! Funny, I just did a reference on my site regarding union suits based on the writings of a manly American man from World War I. Check it out!

Forrest · 1 year ago

Fountain pens I agree with. And pocketwatches. Horn-rimmed or black-plastic-rimmed glasses? Unh-uh. Looked bad back in the 1950s, look bad today.

Some suggestions: stickpins (though they're usually better on the lapel, unless your tie is monochrome), breast-pocket handkerchiefs, and horsehide or steerhide coats (not ordinary leather jackets, which have never gone much out of style).

Oh, and iClaudius? "Being odd or eccentric is not manly?" I stand with Ralph Waldo Emerson on that one:

"Whoso would be a man, must be a nonconformist."

Jack · 1 year ago

@Novel- Thank you for separating suspenders from braces.

I work in construction management and often wear braces to the office. There is an older gentleman whom I work with who came up to me the other day and said

"What's your name again?"
"Jack."
"Jack, goddamnit, where are your braces today? It reminds me of the better days when men were men and we built buildings as if they were going to be there forever."

THAT is a ringing endorsement for braces.

Jasper · 1 year ago

Regarding suspenders / braces... fellas, NEVER purchase or wear the clip-on kind... they're tacky. Be a real man and wear the kind you have to button onto your waistband. Get your girlfriend or wife to sew six buttons on the inside of your waistband, or else sew them onto the pants yourself. It takes a needle, some thread, and about 4 minutes per button. Nothing to it.

I've been wearing braces for several decades now. It's a good, classic look that if done with panache will impress your friends and the ladies. Just today 3 women at work told me I was the most handsomely dressed guy there, and I feel like I barely even try. I had to laugh though when I read through this list... I was wearing a couple of the things there (tortoiseshell glasses and pocket watch) and of course the suspenders and nice shoes.

Guys, it isn't all that hard to stand out in a good way... just stick with the classics!

Jasper

Vercingetorix · 1 year ago

I like the long handle drawers, but most of these I dont go for. To me if it isn't functional and simple it isnt classic. Basic grooming and simplicity is classic IMO. I agree tailoring is something that would benefit most of us. Off the rack clothing seldom fits well, although tayloring is impractically expensive for most. The most classic article i lament the oss of is the working mans suit. A durable suit of moleskin, wool or canvas that allows freedom of movement. people used to play golf in suits and now its almost impossible to drive a car in many. plumbers use to show up in a suit of clothes, take of their jacket, roll up their sleeves and go to work. It would be a functional, weather appropriate, simple to wear and always look groomed. I my just have to (re)design one!

Jenna · 1 year ago

Wonderful post.. These images remind me so much of my grandfather. Classic & simple styles that will remain popular for years to come.

PKPanda · 1 year ago

You know the tailcoat (specifically the morning coat) is classy because Etonians are still rocking it. Combine that with our waistcoat and pinstripe trousers, the best dressed teenagers around.

Dude · 1 year ago

I say "fail" on all accounts unless you're old enough to bank on your social security. This is pure vanity, and pompous vanity at that.

Slade · 1 year ago

Number 5, in fact, is not a tie bar. That is a tie clip, which is not quite the same. A true tie bar is worn up near the knot of the tie to keep it centered and lofted between the two sides of the collar. Both are excellent.

Jonathon Howard · 1 year ago

Where does one find knickers I wonder? I have a pocket watch, though I only where it when I'm wearing my three piece suit. It's hard to find a place for it, when you don't have a vest. I'm all for more vests by the way.

@ Dude

Why is this vanity? This is looking classy and professional, (except the long johns). We all have an image in our heads, constrocuted by both our grandfathers, and a classier, older, hollywood, where men were allowed to dress-up, and the code wasn't the simple sloppiness it has become...

holly · 1 year ago

This article is great...you should submit it to DIGG

Brett · 1 year ago

@Holly-

See here: http://artofmanliness.com/2008/06/22/art-of-man...

K. · 1 year ago

Originally Posted By pistoletteRegarding #5 , The Tie Bar. my corporation actually sent out a note about them in our newsletter last year. It was a travel warning saying that if you were going to dangerous countries, that criminals or terrorists could tell you were American if you were wearing a tie clip (bar). Apparently European and Asian businessmen do not wear them (at least not in 2007). Interesting.

Tie bars are a breach of etiquette. Wearing a bar implies your tie is of insufficient quality to hold itself in place, and therefore diminishes it. That's why Europeans never wear one.

For an otherwise great site that promotes gentlemanly things, the basic rules of etiquette should be considered when making these suggestions.

Jason · 11 months ago

Wool knickers?? I was okay with the ascot, that I like, but wool knickers??
I suppose someone may like the "look".
:)