im lookin to buy a motorcycle - i saw a picture of an old triumph bonneville, looked up the remakes and im hooked - a couple of my friends had sportsbikes but im not into that kinda bike; id much rather cruise (plan to ride cross country/long distance with a bike once im experienced enough)
im saving up to take motorcycle safety and riding lessons and for the bike itself so my questions are
1) does it matter if i buy used? or should i shell out the extra money for new? 2) how much will a bonneville go for (new or used) 3) any tips, recommendations, tips, stories, anything for a new motorcycle enthusiast? 4) any triumph bonneville owners readin this site?
Pete
· 8 months ago
OT, but tell me more about this Green Irish Tweed aftershave....~60 bucks on Amazon? Is this something I should look into? Never heard of it....
Devon Hillard
· 8 months ago
While this is a good guide for buying your second motorcycle, I think for your first motorcycle you should get:
1) Something with less than 70 HP, ideally a good bit less. This will make you less likely to get yourself into trouble/kill yourself right off.
2) Something used and cheap, so that when you drop it, and you WILL drop it, you don't do $10k in damage.
After you have some solid time on the slow beater, then get yourself something good.
I recommend the Kawasaki EX500/Ninja 500 or something similar. You can get them used cheap and they work fine.
Curious
· 8 months ago
Never had a bike, probably never will. I'm just wondering, when the article refers to "dropping" the bike, does this literally mean letting the bike fall over or is this code for some other type of mistake?
Mac
· 8 months ago
The only thing I might add is that you should be prepared for your tastes in motorcycles and/or riding style to change, or to be different from what you first think.
Fresh out of my rider training, and successful licence test, I thought I would be into boulevard cruising and mostly urban/suburban riding. I liked the classic look of a cruiser; the chrome, etc., so that was my first bike purchase. Skip ahead a few years and I found myself enjoying touring down country roads and long distance trips. I ended up outfitting my cruiser with with bags, windshield, and a more comfortable seat for touring.
When I started out I had no idea this is what I would end up liking, and I was fortunate that my cruiser was somewhat adaptable to my tastes. I would definitely not break the bank when buying your first bike because you probably will want something bigger/faster/different after the first few years. As well, some folks find out they don't really like riding for various reasons. There were a few students from my rider training that gave it up in the first year. Factor that in before you get something pricey.
Mac
· 8 months ago
@ Curious - dropping the bike means exactly that: bike meeting pavement in a non-prescribed manner. Hopefully you aren't between the bike and the pavement too.
You will not find a more exhaustive resource on what to look for (and why to look for it) anywhere.
Chris Hunter
· 8 months ago
A few replies to the comments:
Jake, I'd buy secondhand. Check eBay and your local Triumph dealer for Bonneville prices.
Pete, Green Irish Tweed is a long-running underground classic aftershave from one of the oldest parfumiers in existence. It's distinctive, extremely manly, and exceptionally well-regarded. Find a local dealer, and try before you buy.
Devon and Mac, your advice is excellent.
Cheers,
Chris
John vG
· 8 months ago
An approved rider safety course is such a great investment. It's worth every penny, and even for a seaoned rider of 30 year like me the experienced-rider course helped tune up some fundamentals that might save my life someday. All new riders will try to rely on the rear brake for stops. BIG MISTAKE. It takes a lot of effort and practice to do this, but every rider should learn to reach for the front caliper brake as easily as they would stomp the rear brake in an instinct driven emergency braking situation.
If you lock up your rear wheel in a stop (which will happen VERY easily as most of the weight unloads from the rear and shifts to the front), the rear will travel out of line toward the side. The next instinct is to relieve back brake pressure to correct the skid. The next thing will happen in about one second; the rear wheel will correct in a violent way and the rider will go on a gently airborne trajectory OVER the bike and into whatever is in front, like a car or struck grill and quite possibly the bike will follow with unpleasant results. In almost all stopping situations you will be travelling in a straight line and a front brake can be almost locked up with stopping power FAR in excess of the rear brake, with no ill effect.
Well worth researching and reading and practicing too. It's a hard thing to learn, but it should be way up at the top of the list for new riders. Keep in mind that the optimal braking is 70% front and 30% rear or something like that, but to learn to use the front naturally and instinctively takes practice. READ and take a course.
Another thing is to go for many solo rides before riding with a group. In my experience the group ride is very distracting.
OK one more thing - if you're not too fashion conscious and can get over the whole baddass image thing make yourself conspicuous with some extra lights on the bike, or reflective gear, or light modulators, or reflectors or something. It makes a big difference in safety especially in the danger times like dusk and in rain, etc.
I can't wait for the last snow to melt!
stretcharmstrong
· 8 months ago
These days i ride a middleweight sportbike, but in my youth i first started out on a scooter, and for a beginner i would always advise the same route- their light-weight and smaller wheels make for easy handling, they are extremely frugal when it comes to running costs, but most importantly they give you opportunity to get used to riding on two wheels much more safely than jumping on a more powerful and usually more highly-strung bike. Also, because you are not straddling a bikes' fuel tank, if you do have the misfortune to fall off, you are much less likely to end up stuck between the tarmac and the machine
DieMonkeys
· 8 months ago
I'm disappointed that engine size wasn't mentioned. Anyone who has never ridden before should stick with an engine under 500cc, even if your friends all ride liter bikes. When you don't understand the amount of power you have it's very easy to kill yourself.
However, the author made up for that miss by mentioning Hough's book, Proficient Motorcycling. The best book to read for beginning motorcyclists. More Proficient Motorcycling is another good read.
Also, TAKE THE MSF COURSE! http://www.msf-usa.org/ You'll never learn the right way from your friends or on your own and you'll only develop bad habits that'll get yourself killed. Also, alot of states will waive your riding test if you take the MSF course and you can get your license.
elena
· 8 months ago
I wonder if riding a bicycle, while maybe not as manly in the vroom-vroom and speed sense, also makes you smarter in terms of the Japanese study? hmmm...
you should to a post on bicycling soon! it is spring after all...
A.T. Nelson
· 8 months ago
For a good motorcycle-and-manliness fix, check out the Long Way Round and Long Way down mini-series: Ewan McGregor and Charlie Boorman travel around the world and through Africa (respectively) on motorcycles. It does a great job of making you feel like you're traveling with them, and you get that thrill-in-your-stomach feeling that traveling brings.
Richard
· 8 months ago
Good article.
I will echo the many others who have recommended the MSF course; it truly is worth every penny and will save your life, or your skin.
And, don't discount the benefits of a scooter. There are many different kinds and sizes, and they are safe, economical and fun. My Honda Silverwing is terrific, and works well for in-town rides, commuting or long road trips.
BRZ
· 8 months ago
@jake Triumph rider here, '72 Trophy 650. It is a ton of fun but almost all parts need to be ordered. As with all Lucas equipped machines electrical work is a pain. I think riding an old bike you do look like a bad ass. Especially when you give it one kick an it roars to life! However kicking it until your knee blows out seems to negate the effect! If you get an older Triumph be prepared to tinker with it a lot.
Ride. Wrench. Repeat!
Curtis
· 8 months ago
I would again, repeat what has been said. Start on something small, at lewast in the sportbike category. If you go out and buy a 600cc-1400cc Race replica bike, and you promptly drop it, it's going to be expensive, and most likely very painful or fatal to you.
Also, take the MSF, it is an awesome class, ad worth every penny you may need to spend.
Земфира
· 8 months ago
Хороший пост. Прочла с удовольствием
Jason
· 8 months ago
Taking the MSF course before you buy is a good idea. If learning the right way to ride doesn't interest you, then maybe the 10% insurance discount does (that's what I get and it's good for 3 years).
Weight isn't everything. I'll give 3 examples here. I've owned a Honda ST1100 and currently own a Kawasaki Voyager. I also researched the Honda Goldwing 1200 before buying the Voyager. The ST1100 is the lightest at 670 pounds but it is also the most top heavy and hardest to pick up after a drop. Although the Voyager is a 50 pounds heavier, it feels at least 100 pounds lighter because of the lower center of gravity. The Goldwing 1200 feels even lighter than the Voyager because of the boxer engine keeping the weight low.
My starter bike was an $800 KZ440LTD which was an excellent choice. Small, light, and I wasn't upset when I dropped it a couple times. Considering a 500cc sport bike will top out around 150mph, I would not suggest it as a starter bike. A Ninja 250 would be better for someone who has never ridden before. Personally, I'd recommend a cruiser because the steering isn't so touchy and they're more stable at low speeds.
Protective gear isn't cheap but neither are medical bills. I've never needed my gear but have seen several who wish they had it after they went down. There's a lot of mesh gear for summer riding so protection doesn't have to be hot.
Santa
· 8 months ago
I'd rather ride a horse.
Dan J.
· 8 months ago
I bought a bike for my wife, allegedly, to learn to ride on about 5 years ago. I myself had not ridden in 25 years so we went with the Suzuki Savage 650 LS. It is a lightweight cruise, has a short seat height, and enough power in the Thumper, one cylinder engine, to ride on the Interstate when necessary.
A great bike to learn to ride on and fun at the same time. I rode Deal's Gap on US 129 in N.C. and Tenn. and the Blue Ridge Parkway a few years ago on vacation by myself.
Beware, the Savage can carry a passenger but it really taxes the engine.
Brian
· 8 months ago
Definitely get a used bike for your first: I dropped mine plenty of times, and the only thing that made it OK was that I it already had scratches when I bought it.
On the subject of helmets: There are two helmet safety certification standards DOT and Snell. DOT is standard US government safety tests, and is OK, but the Snell tests are far more rigorous and indicate a much more safe helmet.
Finally, and most importantly, make sure you take the Motorcycle Safety course at your local community college before buying your bike. It gives you a huge advantage in terms of motorcycle safety, and can often shortcut you past the limited motorcycle permit stage, and on to a full permit.
Andrew
· 8 months ago
Great post! I'm 21 years old, and looking to buy my first bike this summer. I'm thinking someting in the 250 to 500cc range. What kind of safety gear (besides a helmet) should I be looking at?
Paul
· 8 months ago
Stopped reading after "Even 'Che' Guevara de la Serna was known for his Norton." Maybe you didn't mean it as a hat tip to him, but why would you include his name in a blog about manliness? The guy was a butcher...If Mussolini had ridden motorcycles, would you have included his name?
Kevin
· 8 months ago
I had my start with a 700cc Honda v-twin and loved it. One VERY important point mentioned in the article: get a bike where you can put BOTH FEET ON THE GROUND when you are stopped. Can't recommend that enough.
james
· 8 months ago
This is a great post. Buying a motorcycle is manly. I think you may have missed engine size as an important aspect.
Chris Hunter
· 8 months ago
To those who've brought up the subject of engine size, I apologise for missing that out. I headed towards that territory with the weight/size issue, but didn't address it properly.
Commenter 'stretcharmstrong' suggests starting on a scooter, and that's what I did. I think it's a great idea because you quickly learn some of the dangers of the road, and the dynamics of a two-wheeler. Once you've got that, you can figure out the gearchanging aspect and heightened dynamics of a conventional bike.
Re engine size, I tend to look at power given that engine outputs differ so much. For a new rider who needs a bike for longer distance touring as well as commuting, I'd say 600cc is the max, or 750 for a lower-revving twin.
I would say that Honda’s CBR600RR is outside the envelope of suitable sportsbikes for new-ish riders: a 400 or 500 in lower tune will make the whole experience more enjoyable (and safer).
Jason
· 8 months ago
Andrew, there's a lot of gear to look at. A must is a helmet as you can't function too well without your head. You also need a jacket with armor (elbow, shoulder, and spine). The next worst thing to a head injury is a back injury. Leather gloves (I prefer deer skin) as your hands will hit the pavement every time. That would conclude my "required" list.
Highly recommended are armored pants and boots. Although usually not crippling, legs and feet take a lot of abuse in a fall especially if you're caught under the bike.
Do your research as cheap textile gear can literally melt from the friction of a slide. Leather holds up well but has issues with becoming weaker with age and water exposure. My current gear is a codura & kevlar blend which cost more than my first bike (yeah, I had to save up to get it). Again, do you research here as it's the only thing keeping your skin in tact.
Don't take the sale person's recommendation. They will suggest what they sell, not what is the best. Only the BMW shop here carries good gear but I do live in a small town.
The best protection is defensive riding. They teach this in the MSF class and it will get you out of many situations.
Basil Moss
· 8 months ago
Personally I'll stick with my pedal bike. I think the men who ride 150 miles over cobblestones on the Paris-Roubaix bike race have manliness that trounces any petrol head. All of the encounters I've had with motorbikers have been pretty negative- they seem generally to be overweight and arrogant, leaning towards abusive if they see you riding a bike with pedals instead of petrol. But that's just my experience, maybe motorbike people in America are friendlier...
biker wannabe
· 8 months ago
Damn you Art of Manliness!
A motorcycle is one of those things that I've always wanted, but I go long periods without even thinking about it. Then, every so often I'm reminded of it, and the agony of not having one re-emerges.
*sigh*
Anyway, how bout that Harley Iron 883? Fuck me that's a bad-ass looking ride.
Stephen
· 8 months ago
+1 on the MSF course. When I was in MA they provided motorcycles for you to learn on as well. You were welcome to bring your own, but I strongly discourage people from buying and riding a bike before the MSF course (some places also provide discount on motorcycles/gear after you take the course). A friend of mine did so, bought a brand new Suzuki 600cc GSXR and rode it before his MSF class. He lost control on a highway, spun out, and crashed into a guardrail. Luckily he lived, but his bike was ruined.
Also, I believe everyone should try and take the course, whether they want to pursue a motorcycle license or not. Either way it was a great experience and a good way to try to see if riding a motorcycle is something you want to continue doing.
I also recommend buying a used bike under 500cc. My first bike was a 600cc sportlike bike (katana) which I bought used from a friend for a good price, however, I wished I had something slightly less powerful and heavy. Dropping a bike happened to everyone I know (myself as well). If you can buy a used naked bike (a bike without the fairings - fairings are the plastic coverings on a sportsbike) it is even better since when you drop it the fairings are usually damaged and they are expensive to replace. A prime example would be a used Suzuki GS500, or if you are looking for something with more kick, the SV650.
If you do decide to buy a new bike, be waary of what the salespeople say. Some shady salespeople they will try to oversell you a bike you should not be riding in the first place. Unfortunately there is a stereotype that the bigger the engine size a bike is, the manlier you are. There are many stories of men being sold 1300cc Hayabusas (to feed their ego) by salesmen looking for the higher commission. Many times these men have no experience to handle that much power and will greatly injure themselves, if not kill themselves, from irresponsible riding. If not, they become fearful of riding the motorcycle and it turns them off from riding.
Some people will say that you will outgrow a bike with a smaller engine size, so it is better to buy something more powerful. I believe that buying a used bike to learn on and then selling it is a better way to learn the fundamentals - that way when you are well experienced, you can move up to a new, more powerful bike with confidence of being able to handle it well. The market for used beginner bikes will always be there and many times you will be able to sell what you learned on for a price close to what you bought it for.
Safety equipment. Most likely you want to match the look of your bike - if you have a sporty bike, you may prefer mesh jackets and gloves from companies like first gear. These are armored and protect from road rash. I rode in normal jeans and boots, but keep in mind that in event of a slide, jeans and sneakers will provide minimal protection and road rash is pretty much a given - there is a reason why track racers wear a full leather set up (jacket and pants) for protection. Furthermore, I whole heartedly believe a full faced helmet is the way to go. One time when I was riding, an enormous June bug flew and splattered onto my face shield. I know that if I did not have the face shield and it hit my face, I would have crashed or slid out.
While people may have different reasons for their choice in gear, it is important to note that in a car you are protected by the car. In a motorcycle, you are only as protected by the gear you wear. Please please please do not be a "squid" - someone who believes that a tanktop, shorts and flipflop is proper motorcycle attire. Unfortunately, there are many of these irresponsible riders who believe style and convenience is more important than safety.
Jason
· 8 months ago
Basil Moss: Pedaling on pavement? No thanks, I prefer pedaling on dirt. I was going to start taking the kids mountain biking this summer but one had to go an break his leg which ruined those plans.
If you think bikers are generally overweight, arrogant, and abusive, then you've met the wrong ones. Chances are you've met nice ones but they were in a car and you didn't know they were a biker. I've seen motorcycles with mountain bikes loaded on them or towing a small boat (kayak or similar sized sail boat). By reading the comments so far, no one seems to be arrogant or abusive so hopefully that changes things a little for you.
Something else. For those wanting their speed fix, there's safe alternatives. Take the MSF beginner's class. Then then advanced class. Then something like the Lee Parks Total Control class. Finally find a race school and start doing track days. It's legal and there's no cops or wildlife to ruin your day.
Jason
· 8 months ago
Hahahahahaha! @ the ad for Sexy Gay Singles that I just saw on this site. I'm not a homophobe or anything, its just that at first I thought it was an ad for a hair product.
Jim
· 8 months ago
First bike: A bunch of us motorcycling Santa Cruz/SFBA geeks passed around a Honda Nighthawk CB250 for years. Great starter bike with just enough power to hit the freeway, and little enough to keep you on the pavement. The bodywork is simple enough that you can do repairs yourself (hello, turn signal stems) after you drop it.
I still dropped my 2nd bike a couple times. It happens.
Helmets: If you hope to enjoy eating solid food in the future, get a full-face helmet. A 2-up couple recently wrecked their Harley on an on-ramp in Marin, and from the description in the newspaper that repeatedly mentioned their extensive facial damage, you know what kind of stupid helmets they were wearing. Also, a friend of mine badly chipped his teeth after high-siding it on a slick manhole cover.
Loud pipes: No, they don't save lives. This is a disproven myth. Think about it - how much can you really be warning people ahead of you when your volume is projected to the rear? And you can't count on people hearing you even with loud pipes, because new cars are very well insulated for sound. How manly can you really be if you need loud pipes to inform everyone? ("If you have to tell people you're cool, you're probably not") People begin to doubt... Loud pipes (amongst other negative behaviors) lead to bad public relations which can result in motorcycle bans or restrictions. The non-riding public doesn't differentiate between sport bike, cruiser, or touring bike. Every rider is an ambassador.
Expect everyone on the road to try and kill you.
Motorcycle Consumer News has some brilliant riding articles (and a lot more). I've been a subscriber for around 10 years.
LumpyCam
· 8 months ago
Great article, Chris. My couple cents:
1) Buy used to start--you'll drop it a few times plus tastes will quickly change once you experience what riding is all about for you--and expect to upgrade quickly to your 'real' bike. If you buy a smart first used bike you should be able to sell for not much less than you paid for it (I lost $200 on my first BMW after a year). Get it from Craigslist and NOT a dealer (buy your next 'real' bike from a dealer).
2) Take a course. Many of the principles of motorcycling are not intuitive (e.g. turn left to go right...) and chances are your crazy uncle is not a great teacher.
3) Buy a full-face helmet. There are just soooooo many reasons.
4) Take your significant other to try the pillion (back seat) before you buy. It is now "our" bike.
5) Bookmark bikeexif.com to daydream before jumping on your ride to head home from work. You're commuting to work on it, aren't you?
Kyle
· 8 months ago
I'd love to have a motorcycle, but I simply can't afford the insurance. It costs an arm and a leg to ride one. Considering the long winters here, that would also be on top of a car payment to get around in less favorable weather.
Maybe when I have more money, but for now, my wallet says "no".
Drew
· 8 months ago
NEVER. NEVER. NEVER - EVER go cheap on a helmet. Period.
Look for safety ratings that are BOTH DOT and SNELL certified.
Dropping your bike is a matter of "when," not "if."
Jack of Most Trades.
· 8 months ago
Best piece of advice: Take the MSF course. Second best piece of advice: "Expect everyone on the road to try and kill you."
Jake
· 8 months ago
@Drew
While I wholeheartedly agree that you should spend as much as you can possibly afford on good safety gear, the SNELL/DOT debate is a lively one. There is very good science to back up the idea that helmets should actually absorb impact more slowly than helmets designed to meet the SNELL standard do. SNELL impact standards require a harder shell and foam arrangement, which ultimately could cause more shock to the brain in a crash. Ironically, the cheaper DOT-only approved helmets tend slow the head more slowly (if that makes sense) and thus reduce acceleration on the brain.
Above all, ride like they're all trying to kill you.
Tim
· 8 months ago
To follow up on Jason's post about gear:
ATGATT (all the gear all the time) is the motto to live by if you want to survive. A -fullface-helmet is a must since most head injuries from a fall occur to the jaw area. DOT approval is a must, many are now also SNELL rated. An expensive helmet will be both, but so will an lesser-priced one. The former will have better ventilation and a thicker no-fog shield sometimes, but don't feel the need to spend $700 on a bucket when $200-300 will offer the same protection. Just make sure it fits. If you've got squirrel cheeks, it fits.
Textiles will melt easily upon sliding, and you will slide on pavement that will act like coarse sandpaper to your gear. Leather allows the skin of another animal to be destroyed instead of yours. Textiles will melt into your skin in a long slide. Try to remove it from the wounds. It's not fun. Cordura nylon is a possibility though if you need to use textile. Armor is good, be it soft or hard.
Leather gloves. Nothing else. Full fingered. High cut boots, preferably leather, above the ankle. Waterproof will make you happier in inclement weather. Good tread is required to stay upright at oil-slicked toll booths in the rain while you fumble for coins. Armored riding pants are great and kevlar-denim blends are now an option. I also wear a hard backplate inside my jacket for spinal protection. I've t-boned a car. I know what pain is like. I wish to not endure it again, or mitigate it if unavoidable. I was ATGATT and still severely injured. ATGATT saved me from worse.
Shamless plug: Check out my (now-defunct) motorcycling podcast for 2 years worth of two-wheeled fun. http://www.thetwistedwrist.com
Jared
· 8 months ago
This might sound like a dumb question, but I ask it out of sincere curiosity. If the whole time you're riding a motorcycle you should be thinking that everybody is out to kill you, does that take away from the fun and relaxation of riding? It sounds you'd be tense all the time.
Jason
· 8 months ago
Jared - Yes, it can ruin the ride if you're literally thinking people are trying to kill you. The point is what would be a simple fender bender in a car can be deadly on a motorcycle. Combine a small profile vehicle with other drivers being tired or distracted and they're just not going to see you. Think of it as defensive driving taken to the next level. The good thing is it will become habit so it doesn't prevent you from enjoying the ride.
Here's something to think about. You're cruising down the interstate and you start to pass a car. You see the driver's head turn an glance in his mirror. Hopefully you already know where everyone else is because there's a good chance that car is coming into your lane. Even if you think you made eye contact, they may still take your lane. If you're in traffic, get ready to lay on the horn.
Speaking of horns, look at the Wolo Bad Boy, Stebel Compact Nautilus, or the Fiamm equivalent. They're good for both waking up drivers and scaring wildlife out of the road. Once installed, do not test the horn in your garage.
Lee
· 8 months ago
Nice article and some great advice. I had a motorcycle and learned to ride while overseas in Japan many (many) years ago. This is a great place to learn. Why, you ask? Because you are nothing less than a target - everyone wants to hit you. You learn quickly to always look around for your aggressor.
Anyway, I recently bought another motorcycle lately, more so do to a change in commuting but the old lessons learned still apply today. Not to re-hash everything above, but you have to have a full face helmet. Forget the nazi helmets and all that other crap. Won't save that pretty face of yours for anything - two accidents in Japan and both times I landed square on the chin. No issues here.
I bought a Honda 1100 to commute with and quickly fell into it again. A great bike, reliable, easy to handle, and at 49 mpg - I can live with that.
I see many riders out there at 0 dark thirty on my 85 mile (one way) commute. We all have our safety vests, full gear, and a solid helmet (no K Mart specials). No one cares what we look like. We get there safely and come home to the family.
Once you dress up and see the weekend lobsters (you can tell - tank tops and a nice new sunburn) - you'll sit back and smile.
Best,
Steve
· 8 months ago
Kyle,
"I’d love to have a motorcycle, but I simply can’t afford the insurance."
What are you trying to insure? Maybe you're looking at the wrong kind of bike?
I pay $200 per year for full coverage insurance on my bike. Perhaps shop the insurance providers or look at different models and years of bikes to find a policy you can afford.
All Comments
im saving up to take motorcycle safety and riding lessons and for the bike itself so my questions are
1) does it matter if i buy used? or should i shell out the extra money for new?
2) how much will a bonneville go for (new or used)
3) any tips, recommendations, tips, stories, anything for a new motorcycle enthusiast?
4) any triumph bonneville owners readin this site?
1) Something with less than 70 HP, ideally a good bit less. This will make you less likely to get yourself into trouble/kill yourself right off.
2) Something used and cheap, so that when you drop it, and you WILL drop it, you don't do $10k in damage.
After you have some solid time on the slow beater, then get yourself something good.
I recommend the Kawasaki EX500/Ninja 500 or something similar. You can get them used cheap and they work fine.
Fresh out of my rider training, and successful licence test, I thought I would be into boulevard cruising and mostly urban/suburban riding. I liked the classic look of a cruiser; the chrome, etc., so that was my first bike purchase. Skip ahead a few years and I found myself enjoying touring down country roads and long distance trips. I ended up outfitting my cruiser with with bags, windshield, and a more comfortable seat for touring.
When I started out I had no idea this is what I would end up liking, and I was fortunate that my cruiser was somewhat adaptable to my tastes. I would definitely not break the bank when buying your first bike because you probably will want something bigger/faster/different after the first few years. As well, some folks find out they don't really like riding for various reasons. There were a few students from my rider training that gave it up in the first year. Factor that in before you get something pricey.
You will not find a more exhaustive resource on what to look for (and why to look for it) anywhere.
Jake, I'd buy secondhand. Check eBay and your local Triumph dealer for Bonneville prices.
Pete, Green Irish Tweed is a long-running underground classic aftershave from one of the oldest parfumiers in existence. It's distinctive, extremely manly, and exceptionally well-regarded. Find a local dealer, and try before you buy.
Devon and Mac, your advice is excellent.
Cheers,
Chris
If you lock up your rear wheel in a stop (which will happen VERY easily as most of the weight unloads from the rear and shifts to the front), the rear will travel out of line toward the side. The next instinct is to relieve back brake pressure to correct the skid. The next thing will happen in about one second; the rear wheel will correct in a violent way and the rider will go on a gently airborne trajectory OVER the bike and into whatever is in front, like a car or struck grill and quite possibly the bike will follow with unpleasant results. In almost all stopping situations you will be travelling in a straight line and a front brake can be almost locked up with stopping power FAR in excess of the rear brake, with no ill effect.
Well worth researching and reading and practicing too. It's a hard thing to learn, but it should be way up at the top of the list for new riders. Keep in mind that the optimal braking is 70% front and 30% rear or something like that, but to learn to use the front naturally and instinctively takes practice. READ and take a course.
Another thing is to go for many solo rides before riding with a group. In my experience the group ride is very distracting.
OK one more thing - if you're not too fashion conscious and can get over the whole baddass image thing make yourself conspicuous with some extra lights on the bike, or reflective gear, or light modulators, or reflectors or something. It makes a big difference in safety especially in the danger times like dusk and in rain, etc.
I can't wait for the last snow to melt!
However, the author made up for that miss by mentioning Hough's book, Proficient Motorcycling. The best book to read for beginning motorcyclists. More Proficient Motorcycling is another good read.
Also, TAKE THE MSF COURSE! http://www.msf-usa.org/
You'll never learn the right way from your friends or on your own and you'll only develop bad habits that'll get yourself killed. Also, alot of states will waive your riding test if you take the MSF course and you can get your license.
you should to a post on bicycling soon! it is spring after all...
I will echo the many others who have recommended the MSF course; it truly is worth every penny and will save your life, or your skin.
And, don't discount the benefits of a scooter. There are many different kinds and sizes, and they are safe, economical and fun. My Honda Silverwing is terrific, and works well for in-town rides, commuting or long road trips.
Triumph rider here, '72 Trophy 650. It is a ton of fun but almost all parts need to be ordered. As with all Lucas equipped machines electrical work is a pain. I think riding an old bike you do look like a bad ass. Especially when you give it one kick an it roars to life! However kicking it until your knee blows out seems to negate the effect!
If you get an older Triumph be prepared to tinker with it a lot.
Ride. Wrench. Repeat!
Also, take the MSF, it is an awesome class, ad worth every penny you may need to spend.
Weight isn't everything. I'll give 3 examples here. I've owned a Honda ST1100 and currently own a Kawasaki Voyager. I also researched the Honda Goldwing 1200 before buying the Voyager. The ST1100 is the lightest at 670 pounds but it is also the most top heavy and hardest to pick up after a drop. Although the Voyager is a 50 pounds heavier, it feels at least 100 pounds lighter because of the lower center of gravity. The Goldwing 1200 feels even lighter than the Voyager because of the boxer engine keeping the weight low.
My starter bike was an $800 KZ440LTD which was an excellent choice. Small, light, and I wasn't upset when I dropped it a couple times. Considering a 500cc sport bike will top out around 150mph, I would not suggest it as a starter bike. A Ninja 250 would be better for someone who has never ridden before. Personally, I'd recommend a cruiser because the steering isn't so touchy and they're more stable at low speeds.
Protective gear isn't cheap but neither are medical bills. I've never needed my gear but have seen several who wish they had it after they went down. There's a lot of mesh gear for summer riding so protection doesn't have to be hot.
A great bike to learn to ride on and fun at the same time. I rode Deal's Gap on US 129 in N.C. and Tenn. and the Blue Ridge Parkway a few years ago on vacation by myself.
Beware, the Savage can carry a passenger but it really taxes the engine.
On the subject of helmets: There are two helmet safety certification standards DOT and Snell. DOT is standard US government safety tests, and is OK, but the Snell tests are far more rigorous and indicate a much more safe helmet.
Finally, and most importantly, make sure you take the Motorcycle Safety course at your local community college before buying your bike. It gives you a huge advantage in terms of motorcycle safety, and can often shortcut you past the limited motorcycle permit stage, and on to a full permit.
Commenter 'stretcharmstrong' suggests starting on a scooter, and that's what I did. I think it's a great idea because you quickly learn some of the dangers of the road, and the dynamics of a two-wheeler. Once you've got that, you can figure out the gearchanging aspect and heightened dynamics of a conventional bike.
Re engine size, I tend to look at power given that engine outputs differ so much. For a new rider who needs a bike for longer distance touring as well as commuting, I'd say 600cc is the max, or 750 for a lower-revving twin.
I would say that Honda’s CBR600RR is outside the envelope of suitable sportsbikes for new-ish riders: a 400 or 500 in lower tune will make the whole experience more enjoyable (and safer).
Highly recommended are armored pants and boots. Although usually not crippling, legs and feet take a lot of abuse in a fall especially if you're caught under the bike.
Do your research as cheap textile gear can literally melt from the friction of a slide. Leather holds up well but has issues with becoming weaker with age and water exposure. My current gear is a codura & kevlar blend which cost more than my first bike (yeah, I had to save up to get it). Again, do you research here as it's the only thing keeping your skin in tact.
Don't take the sale person's recommendation. They will suggest what they sell, not what is the best. Only the BMW shop here carries good gear but I do live in a small town.
The best protection is defensive riding. They teach this in the MSF class and it will get you out of many situations.
A motorcycle is one of those things that I've always wanted, but I go long periods without even thinking about it. Then, every so often I'm reminded of it, and the agony of not having one re-emerges.
*sigh*
Anyway, how bout that Harley Iron 883? Fuck me that's a bad-ass looking ride.
Also, I believe everyone should try and take the course, whether they want to pursue a motorcycle license or not. Either way it was a great experience and a good way to try to see if riding a motorcycle is something you want to continue doing.
I also recommend buying a used bike under 500cc. My first bike was a 600cc sportlike bike (katana) which I bought used from a friend for a good price, however, I wished I had something slightly less powerful and heavy. Dropping a bike happened to everyone I know (myself as well). If you can buy a used naked bike (a bike without the fairings - fairings are the plastic coverings on a sportsbike) it is even better since when you drop it the fairings are usually damaged and they are expensive to replace. A prime example would be a used Suzuki GS500, or if you are looking for something with more kick, the SV650.
If you do decide to buy a new bike, be waary of what the salespeople say. Some shady salespeople they will try to oversell you a bike you should not be riding in the first place. Unfortunately there is a stereotype that the bigger the engine size a bike is, the manlier you are. There are many stories of men being sold 1300cc Hayabusas (to feed their ego) by salesmen looking for the higher commission. Many times these men have no experience to handle that much power and will greatly injure themselves, if not kill themselves, from irresponsible riding. If not, they become fearful of riding the motorcycle and it turns them off from riding.
Some people will say that you will outgrow a bike with a smaller engine size, so it is better to buy something more powerful. I believe that buying a used bike to learn on and then selling it is a better way to learn the fundamentals - that way when you are well experienced, you can move up to a new, more powerful bike with confidence of being able to handle it well. The market for used beginner bikes will always be there and many times you will be able to sell what you learned on for a price close to what you bought it for.
Safety equipment. Most likely you want to match the look of your bike - if you have a sporty bike, you may prefer mesh jackets and gloves from companies like first gear. These are armored and protect from road rash. I rode in normal jeans and boots, but keep in mind that in event of a slide, jeans and sneakers will provide minimal protection and road rash is pretty much a given - there is a reason why track racers wear a full leather set up (jacket and pants) for protection. Furthermore, I whole heartedly believe a full faced helmet is the way to go. One time when I was riding, an enormous June bug flew and splattered onto my face shield. I know that if I did not have the face shield and it hit my face, I would have crashed or slid out.
While people may have different reasons for their choice in gear, it is important to note that in a car you are protected by the car. In a motorcycle, you are only as protected by the gear you wear. Please please please do not be a "squid" - someone who believes that a tanktop, shorts and flipflop is proper motorcycle attire. Unfortunately, there are many of these irresponsible riders who believe style and convenience is more important than safety.
If you think bikers are generally overweight, arrogant, and abusive, then you've met the wrong ones. Chances are you've met nice ones but they were in a car and you didn't know they were a biker. I've seen motorcycles with mountain bikes loaded on them or towing a small boat (kayak or similar sized sail boat). By reading the comments so far, no one seems to be arrogant or abusive so hopefully that changes things a little for you.
Something else. For those wanting their speed fix, there's safe alternatives. Take the MSF beginner's class. Then then advanced class. Then something like the Lee Parks Total Control class. Finally find a race school and start doing track days. It's legal and there's no cops or wildlife to ruin your day.
I still dropped my 2nd bike a couple times. It happens.
Helmets: If you hope to enjoy eating solid food in the future, get a full-face helmet. A 2-up couple recently wrecked their Harley on an on-ramp in Marin, and from the description in the newspaper that repeatedly mentioned their extensive facial damage, you know what kind of stupid helmets they were wearing. Also, a friend of mine badly chipped his teeth after high-siding it on a slick manhole cover.
Loud pipes: No, they don't save lives. This is a disproven myth. Think about it - how much can you really be warning people ahead of you when your volume is projected to the rear? And you can't count on people hearing you even with loud pipes, because new cars are very well insulated for sound. How manly can you really be if you need loud pipes to inform everyone? ("If you have to tell people you're cool, you're probably not") People begin to doubt... Loud pipes (amongst other negative behaviors) lead to bad public relations which can result in motorcycle bans or restrictions. The non-riding public doesn't differentiate between sport bike, cruiser, or touring bike. Every rider is an ambassador.
Expect everyone on the road to try and kill you.
Motorcycle Consumer News has some brilliant riding articles (and a lot more). I've been a subscriber for around 10 years.
1) Buy used to start--you'll drop it a few times plus tastes will quickly change once you experience what riding is all about for you--and expect to upgrade quickly to your 'real' bike. If you buy a smart first used bike you should be able to sell for not much less than you paid for it (I lost $200 on my first BMW after a year). Get it from Craigslist and NOT a dealer (buy your next 'real' bike from a dealer).
2) Take a course. Many of the principles of motorcycling are not intuitive (e.g. turn left to go right...) and chances are your crazy uncle is not a great teacher.
3) Buy a full-face helmet. There are just soooooo many reasons.
4) Take your significant other to try the pillion (back seat) before you buy. It is now "our" bike.
5) Bookmark bikeexif.com to daydream before jumping on your ride to head home from work. You're commuting to work on it, aren't you?
Maybe when I have more money, but for now, my wallet says "no".
Look for safety ratings that are BOTH DOT and SNELL certified.
Dropping your bike is a matter of "when," not "if."
Second best piece of advice: "Expect everyone on the road to try and kill you."
While I wholeheartedly agree that you should spend as much as you can possibly afford on good safety gear, the SNELL/DOT debate is a lively one. There is very good science to back up the idea that helmets should actually absorb impact more slowly than helmets designed to meet the SNELL standard do. SNELL impact standards require a harder shell and foam arrangement, which ultimately could cause more shock to the brain in a crash. Ironically, the cheaper DOT-only approved helmets tend slow the head more slowly (if that makes sense) and thus reduce acceleration on the brain.
A good article from Motorcyclist on the subject can be found at: http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/gearbox/motor...
Above all, ride like they're all trying to kill you.
ATGATT (all the gear all the time) is the motto to live by if you want to survive. A -fullface-helmet is a must since most head injuries from a fall occur to the jaw area. DOT approval is a must, many are now also SNELL rated. An expensive helmet will be both, but so will an lesser-priced one. The former will have better ventilation and a thicker no-fog shield sometimes, but don't feel the need to spend $700 on a bucket when $200-300 will offer the same protection. Just make sure it fits. If you've got squirrel cheeks, it fits.
Textiles will melt easily upon sliding, and you will slide on pavement that will act like coarse sandpaper to your gear. Leather allows the skin of another animal to be destroyed instead of yours. Textiles will melt into your skin in a long slide. Try to remove it from the wounds. It's not fun. Cordura nylon is a possibility though if you need to use textile. Armor is good, be it soft or hard.
Leather gloves. Nothing else. Full fingered. High cut boots, preferably leather, above the ankle. Waterproof will make you happier in inclement weather. Good tread is required to stay upright at oil-slicked toll booths in the rain while you fumble for coins. Armored riding pants are great and kevlar-denim blends are now an option. I also wear a hard backplate inside my jacket for spinal protection. I've t-boned a car. I know what pain is like. I wish to not endure it again, or mitigate it if unavoidable. I was ATGATT and still severely injured. ATGATT saved me from worse.
Shamless plug: Check out my (now-defunct) motorcycling podcast for 2 years worth of two-wheeled fun. http://www.thetwistedwrist.com
Here's something to think about. You're cruising down the interstate and you start to pass a car. You see the driver's head turn an glance in his mirror. Hopefully you already know where everyone else is because there's a good chance that car is coming into your lane. Even if you think you made eye contact, they may still take your lane. If you're in traffic, get ready to lay on the horn.
Speaking of horns, look at the Wolo Bad Boy, Stebel Compact Nautilus, or the Fiamm equivalent. They're good for both waking up drivers and scaring wildlife out of the road. Once installed, do not test the horn in your garage.
Anyway, I recently bought another motorcycle lately, more so do to a change in commuting but the old lessons learned still apply today. Not to re-hash everything above, but you have to have a full face helmet. Forget the nazi helmets and all that other crap. Won't save that pretty face of yours for anything - two accidents in Japan and both times I landed square on the chin. No issues here.
I bought a Honda 1100 to commute with and quickly fell into it again. A great bike, reliable, easy to handle, and at 49 mpg - I can live with that.
I see many riders out there at 0 dark thirty on my 85 mile (one way) commute. We all have our safety vests, full gear, and a solid helmet (no K Mart specials). No one cares what we look like. We get there safely and come home to the family.
Once you dress up and see the weekend lobsters (you can tell - tank tops and a nice new sunburn) - you'll sit back and smile.
Best,
"I’d love to have a motorcycle, but I simply can’t afford the insurance."
What are you trying to insure? Maybe you're looking at the wrong kind of bike?
I pay $200 per year for full coverage insurance on my bike. Perhaps shop the insurance providers or look at different models and years of bikes to find a policy you can afford.